How to Replace timing belt on Citroen C3 1.1 2009-


Replacement Interval Guide

  • Citroen recommend:
  • C2/C3 I/II/III/C3 Pluriel:
  • →28/07/05: Replacement every 80,000 miles or 10 years under normal conditions or 50,000 miles or 10 years under adverse conditions.
  • 29/07/05→: Replacement every 100,000 miles or 10 years under normal conditions or 75,000 miles or 10 years under adverse conditions.
  • Berlingo:
  • →28/07/05: Replacement every 75,000 miles or 10 years under normal conditions or 60,000 miles or 10 years under adverse conditions.
  • 29/07/05→: Replacement every 100,000 miles or 10 years under normal conditions or 80,000 miles or 10 years under adverse conditions.
  • The previous use and service history of the vehicle must always be taken into account.

Check For Engine Damage

CAUTION: This engine has been identified as an INTERFERENCE engine in which the possibility of valve-to-piston damage in the event of a timing belt failure is MOST LIKELY to occur. A compression check of all cylinders should be performed before removing the cylinder head.

Repair Times – hrs

Remove & install:
C2/C3 I/II/C3 Pluriel2,10
C3 III1,80

Special Tools

  • C3 III: Auxiliary drive belt tensioner pulley locking tool – Citroen No.0188-Q1.
  • C3 III: Auxiliary drive belt tensioner pulley adjusting tool – Citroen No.0188-Z.
  • Camshaft timing pin – Citroen No.4507-T.B or 0132-RZ.
  • Flywheel timing pin – Citroen No.4507-T.A or 0132-QY.
  • Tensioner retaining tool – Citroen No.4200-T.H or 0153-AL.
  • Timing belt retaining clip – Citroen No.4533-T.AD or 0153-AE.

Special Precautions

  • Disconnect battery earth lead.
  • DO NOT turn crankshaft or camshaft when timing belt removed.
  • Remove spark plugs to ease turning engine.
  • Turn engine in normal direction of rotation (unless otherwise stated).
  • DO NOT turn engine via camshaft or other sprockets.
  • Observe all tightening torques.
How to Replace timing belt on Citroen C3 1.1 2009-


  1. Raise and support front of vehicle.
  2. Remove:
      • RH front wheel.
      • RH splash guard.
      • Auxiliary drive belt. C3 III: Use tool Nos.0188-Q1 & 0188-Z.
      • Crankshaft pulley bolts [1] .
      • Crankshaft pulley [2] .
      • Oil filter (if necessary).
  3. C2/C3/C3 Pluriel: Support engine.
  4. Remove:
      • C2: Secondary air injection (AIR) pump and bracket.
      • Timing belt covers [3] [4] .
  5. Turn crankshaft clockwise to setting position.
  6. Insert timing pin in camshaft sprocket [5] . Tool No.4507-T.B or 0132-RZ.
  7. Insert flywheel timing pin [6] . Tool No.4507-T.A or 0132-QY.
  8. C2/C3/C3 Pluriel: Remove RH engine mounting and bracket.
  9. Slacken tensioner pulley nut to release tension on belt [7] .
  10. Move tensioner pulley away from belt. Lightly tighten nut [7] .
  11. Remove timing belt.NOTE: DO NOT refit used belt.


  1. Check tensioner pulley and water pump sprocket for smooth operation.
  2. Ensure timing pins located correctly [5] [6] .
  3. Fit timing belt to crankshaft sprocket.
  4. Secure belt to crankshaft sprocket with retaining clip. Tool No.4533-T.AD or 0153-AE [8] .
  5. Fit timing belt in following order:
      • Camshaft sprocket.
      • Water pump sprocket.
      • Tensioner pulley.

    NOTE: Ensure belt is taut between sprockets. Ensure arrow on belt faces direction of rotation.

  6. Remove:
      • Timing pins [5] [6] .
      • Retaining clip [8] .
  7. Fit new tensioner pulley nut [7] . Finger tighten.
  8. Turn tensioner pulley until pointer at position shown [9] . Use Allen key [10] .
  9. Insert tensioner retaining tool [11] . Tool No.4200-T.H or 0153-AL.
  10. Temporarily tighten tensioner pulley nut to 10 Nm [7] .
  11. C2/C3 I/II/C3 Pluriel: Turn crankshaft four turns clockwise to setting position.
  12. C3 III: Turn crankshaft ten turns clockwise to setting position.NOTE: DO NOT allow crankshaft to turn anti-clockwise.
  13. Insert timing pins [5] [6] .
  14. If timing pins cannot be inserted easily, repeat installation procedure.
  15. Remove timing pins [5] [6] .
  16. Hold tensioner pulley in position. Use Allen key [10] . Slacken tensioner pulley nut [7] .
  17. Remove tensioner retaining tool [11] .
  18. Turn tensioner pulley until pointer at position shown [12] . Use Allen key [10] .
  19. If pointer passes notch [13] , repeat tensioning procedure.
  20. Hold tensioner pulley. Use Allen key [10] . Tighten tensioner pulley nut [7] . Tightening torque: 21±2 Nm.NOTE: Ensure tensioner pulley does not move when tightening nut [7] . If tensioner pulley moves: Repeat tensioning procedure.
  21. Install components in reverse order of removal.
  22. Tighten crankshaft pulley bolts [1] . Tightening torque: 25±6 Nm.
Bent Valves
Timing Tools?
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Bent Valves

What happens when your chain or belt breaks. 

The timing of course becomes way off. Your crankshaft will always spin making the pistons move up and down. However the valves will remain in the position they were in when the belt or chain stopped working. 

Half of the valves will be stuck open and in the way of the pistons. Not all engines, but most. The piston out of valve time will smash right into the open valve and bend the, The only way to fix that is to remove the head and place those valves. 

If you think your valves might have been damaged.

Remove all the spark plugs, valve covers. With both valves in the closed position insert a compression tester hose in place of the spark plug and inject air into the hose and see if the cylinder can hold air. If both valve are closed and air can not be held, chances are you have bent valves.   


Timing Tools?

Do you need special tools to time your engine? Not always, on all my post I'll indicate that in each post if you do or not. 

But what are these special tools? Normally you would just line up some marks on the cam and crank gears and simply be done with it. However when these tools are needed they are very very important. 

The last one I did was a 2013 Range Rover 2.0 Turbo with dual cams. There were not timing marks at all. 

There is a small threaded plug on the back of the engine that I removed to insert a special threaded pin that would rest up against the weight of the crankshaft to prevent for DTC of the #1 piston. No further clockwise rotation would be possible. At that point I installed the supplied crankshaft lock by removing the starter. 

Then you line up the back of both camshafts to a notch in each camshafts to each other that a flat tool connects to each cam so they are in line with each other. But first you would make sure both intake and exhaust valves are closed DTC of the cams. 

And the last tool was to lineup the crankshaft position sensor. 



The most important thing in any major engine work is to rotate the engine by hand at least two complete rotations. And do it easy and slow and with the spark plugs removed. 

Why remove the spark plugs? you may ask. Simple, with the plugs in place you'll be creating compression, making the engine harder to turn by hand and perhaps giving you the misconception of valves hitting the pistons or is it compression.  

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