How to Replace timing chain on Audi A4 B8 3.2 FSI quattro

A4 Audi Quattro

Special tools

  • Camshaft adjuster pre-tensioning tool 1 – No.T10172.
  • Camshaft adjuster pre-tensioning tool 2 – No.T10172/2.
  • Camshaft locking tool x 2 – No.T40133.
  • Crankshaft alignment tool – No.T40049.
  • Crankshaft locking pin – No.T40069.
  • Crankshaft pulley alignment tool – No.T40058.
  • Timing chain tensioner locking pin – No.T40071.

General precautions

  • Disconnect battery earth lead.
  • Remove spark plugs to ease turning engine.
  • Turn engine in normal direction of rotation (unless otherwise stated).
  • Observe tightening torques.
  • If fitted: Mark position of crankshaft position (CKP) sensor before removal.
  • Do NOT turn crankshaft via camshaft or other sprockets.
  • Do NOT turn crankshaft or camshaft with timing chain removed.

Valve timing procedures

How to Replace timing chain on Audi A4 B8 3.2 FSI quattro
  • Timing chains located at rear of engine.
  • Removal/installation of timing chain(s) requires:
      • Transmission removal.
      • Flywheel removal.
  • A4/A5/Q5:
      • Engine at TDC on No.1 cylinder [1] .
      • Ensure camshafts correctly aligned [2] . Threaded holes in camshafts point upwards.
      • If not, turn crankshaft 360°.
  • A6:
      • Turn crankshaft in direction of rotation until threaded holes in camshafts point upwards [2] .
  • Remove blanking plug from cylinder block.
  • Install crankshaft locking pin [3] . Tighten to 20 Nm.
  • Ensure balancer shaft can be locked in position [4] .
  • Fit camshaft locking tools [5] . Tighten to 25 Nm.
  • If camshaft locking tool cannot be fitted valve timing is incorrect.
  • Remove tensioner(s) to ease timing chain(s) removal/installation.
  • Push plunger [6] into tensioner housing [7] and insert locking pin [8] .

NOTE: Mark chain link and camshaft adjusters with paint before removal.

  • Slacken central bolt of each camshaft adjuster 1 turn [9] .
  • Align camshafts.
  • Fit camshaft locking tools [5] . Tighten to 25 Nm.
  • Tighten bolt of each camshaft adjuster. Tightening torque: 80 Nm + 90°.
  • Remove timing chain tensioner locking pins after repairs [8] .

NOTE: Central bolt of camshaft adjusters MUST only be used once.

  • Remove crankshaft locking pin and camshaft locking tools [3] [5] .
  • Turn crankshaft two turns clockwise.
  • Fit crankshaft locking pin [3] .
  • Check valve timing.
  • Remove crankshaft locking pin [3] .
  • Refit blanking plug and tighten to 14 Nm.

NOTE: If timing chains are to be reused, mark LH and RH chains before removal to ensure they are refitted in their original positions.

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Bent Valves
Timing Tools?
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Bent Valves

What happens when your chain or belt breaks. 

The timing of course becomes way off. Your crankshaft will always spin making the pistons move up and down. However the valves will remain in the position they were in when the belt or chain stopped working. 

Half of the valves will be stuck open and in the way of the pistons. Not all engines, but most. The piston out of valve time will smash right into the open valve and bend the, The only way to fix that is to remove the head and place those valves. 

If you think your valves might have been damaged.

Remove all the spark plugs, valve covers. With both valves in the closed position insert a compression tester hose in place of the spark plug and inject air into the hose and see if the cylinder can hold air. If both valve are closed and air can not be held, chances are you have bent valves.   


Timing Tools?

Do you need special tools to time your engine? Not always, on all my post I'll indicate that in each post if you do or not. 

But what are these special tools? Normally you would just line up some marks on the cam and crank gears and simply be done with it. However when these tools are needed they are very very important. 

The last one I did was a 2013 Range Rover 2.0 Turbo with dual cams. There were not timing marks at all. 

There is a small threaded plug on the back of the engine that I removed to insert a special threaded pin that would rest up against the weight of the crankshaft to prevent for DTC of the #1 piston. No further clockwise rotation would be possible. At that point I installed the supplied crankshaft lock by removing the starter. 

Then you line up the back of both camshafts to a notch in each camshafts to each other that a flat tool connects to each cam so they are in line with each other. But first you would make sure both intake and exhaust valves are closed DTC of the cams. 

And the last tool was to lineup the crankshaft position sensor. 



The most important thing in any major engine work is to rotate the engine by hand at least two complete rotations. And do it easy and slow and with the spark plugs removed. 

Why remove the spark plugs? you may ask. Simple, with the plugs in place you'll be creating compression, making the engine harder to turn by hand and perhaps giving you the misconception of valves hitting the pistons or is it compression.  

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