How to Replace timing belt on Audi A4 (B6) 1.9 TDI 2001

A4 Audi

Special tools

  • Camshaft locking tool – No.3359.
  • Crankshaft sprocket locking tool – No.T10050.
  • Support guides – No.3369.
  • Tensioner locking tool – No.T10008.
  • Two-pin wrench – No.3387.
  • Viscous fan pulley holding tool – No.3212. 4 mm drill bit.

Special precautions

  • Disconnect battery earth lead.
  • DO NOT turn crankshaft or camshaft when timing belt removed.
  • Remove glow plugs to ease turning engine.
  • Turn engine in normal direction of rotation (unless otherwise stated).
  • DO NOT turn engine via camshaft or other sprockets.
  • Observe all tightening torques.

Repair times – hrs

Camshaft drive belt/chain – R & I2,60
Camshaft drive belt/chain, AT – R & I2,60

Valve timing procedures

How to Replace timing belt on Audi A4 (B6) 1.9 TDI 2001


  1. Move radiator support panel into service position:
    • Remove front bumper.
    • Remove air intake pipe between front panel and air filter.
    • Remove front panel bolts [1] & [2] .
    • Install support guides No.3369 in front panel [3] .
    • Slide front panel forward.
  2. Raise and support front of vehicle.
  3. Disconnect exhaust pipe for auxiliary heater from engine undershield (if fitted).
  4. Remove:
    • Engine top cover.
    • Engine undershield.
    • Auxiliary drive belt.
    • Cooling fan assembly. Use tool No.3212.
    • Auxiliary drive belt tensioner.
    • Bolts for coolant pipe brackets (if required).
    • Timing belt upper cover [4] .
  5. Move turbocharger (TC) wastegate regulating valve.
  6. Remove:
    • Crankshaft pulley bolts [5] .
    • Crankshaft pulley [6] .
    • Timing belt centre cover [7] .
    • Timing belt lower cover [8] .
  7. Turn crankshaft clockwise to TDC on No.1 cylinder. Ensure timing mark aligned with notch on camshaft sprocket hub [9] .
    NOTE: Notch located behind camshaft sprocket teeth.
  8. Lock crankshaft sprocket [10] . Use tool No.T10050.
  9. Ensure timing marks aligned [11] .
  10. Lock camshaft [12] . Use tool No.3359.
  11. Fully insert Allen key into tensioner pulley [13] .
  12. Turn tensioner pulley slowly anti-clockwise until locking tool can be inserted [14] . Tool No.T10008.
  13. Slacken tensioner nut [15] .
  14. Remove:
    • Automatic tensioner unit [16] .
    • Timing belt.


  1. Ensure camshaft locked with tool [12] . Tool No.3359.
  2. Ensure crankshaft sprocket locking tool located correctly [10] . Tool No.T10050.
  3. Ensure timing marks aligned [11] .
  4. Ensure automatic tensioner unit locked with tool [14] . Tool No.T10008.
  5. Slacken camshaft sprocket bolts [17] .
  6. Turn camshaft sprocket fully clockwise in slotted holes. Tighten bolts finger tight [17] .
  7. Turn tensioner pulley slowly clockwise [18] until lug [19] just reaches stop [20] . Use tool No.3387 [21] .
  8. Fit timing belt in following order:
    • Camshaft sprocket.
    • Tensioner pulley.
    • Crankshaft sprocket.
    • Water pump sprocket.
  9. Install automatic tensioner unit [16] .
  10. Turn tensioner pulley slowly anti-clockwise [22] (lug [19] moves towards stop [23] ). Use tool No.3387 [21] .
  11. Remove locking tool without force [14] .
    NOTE: Ensure two-pin wrench remains in position.
  12. Allow tensioner pulley to turn back slowly [21] (lug [19] moves towards stop [20] ) until dimension [24] is 4±1 mm. Use drill bit.
    NOTE: Engine must be COLD.
  13. Tighten tensioner nut [15] . Tightening torque: 20 Nm + 45°.
  14. Tighten camshaft sprocket bolts [17] . Tightening torque: 25 Nm.
  15. Remove:
    • Camshaft locking tool [12] .
    • Crankshaft sprocket locking tool [10] .
    • Drill bit.
  16. Turn crankshaft slowly two turns clockwise to TDC on No.1 cylinder.
  17. Ensure dimension [24] is 4±1 mm. Use drill bit.
  18. If not: Slacken tensioner nut [15] . Turn tensioner pulley until dimension as specified [24] . Tighten tensioner nut [15] . Tightening torque: 20 Nm + 45°.
  19. Lock crankshaft sprocket [10] . Use tool No.T10050.
  20. Ensure timing marks aligned [11] .
  21. Ensure camshaft locking tool can be inserted easily [12] . Tool No.3359.
  22. If not:
    • Slacken camshaft sprocket bolts [17] .
    • Turn sprocket hub until locking tool can be inserted [12] .
    • Tighten bolts [17] . Tightening torque: 25 Nm.
    • Remove locking tools [10] & [12] .
    • Turn crankshaft slowly two turns clockwise to TDC on No.1 cylinder.
    • Ensure locking tools can be fitted correctly [10] & [12] .
  23. Remove:
    • Camshaft locking tool [12] .
    • Crankshaft locking tool [10] .
    • Drill bit.
  24. Install components in reverse order of removal.
  25. Tighten crankshaft pulley bolts [5] . Tightening torque: 10 Nm + 90°. Use new bolts.
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Bent Valves
Timing Tools?
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Bent Valves

What happens when your chain or belt breaks. 

The timing of course becomes way off. Your crankshaft will always spin making the pistons move up and down. However the valves will remain in the position they were in when the belt or chain stopped working. 

Half of the valves will be stuck open and in the way of the pistons. Not all engines, but most. The piston out of valve time will smash right into the open valve and bend the, The only way to fix that is to remove the head and place those valves. 

If you think your valves might have been damaged.

Remove all the spark plugs, valve covers. With both valves in the closed position insert a compression tester hose in place of the spark plug and inject air into the hose and see if the cylinder can hold air. If both valve are closed and air can not be held, chances are you have bent valves.   


Timing Tools?

Do you need special tools to time your engine? Not always, on all my post I'll indicate that in each post if you do or not. 

But what are these special tools? Normally you would just line up some marks on the cam and crank gears and simply be done with it. However when these tools are needed they are very very important. 

The last one I did was a 2013 Range Rover 2.0 Turbo with dual cams. There were not timing marks at all. 

There is a small threaded plug on the back of the engine that I removed to insert a special threaded pin that would rest up against the weight of the crankshaft to prevent for DTC of the #1 piston. No further clockwise rotation would be possible. At that point I installed the supplied crankshaft lock by removing the starter. 

Then you line up the back of both camshafts to a notch in each camshafts to each other that a flat tool connects to each cam so they are in line with each other. But first you would make sure both intake and exhaust valves are closed DTC of the cams. 

And the last tool was to lineup the crankshaft position sensor. 



The most important thing in any major engine work is to rotate the engine by hand at least two complete rotations. And do it easy and slow and with the spark plugs removed. 

Why remove the spark plugs? you may ask. Simple, with the plugs in place you'll be creating compression, making the engine harder to turn by hand and perhaps giving you the misconception of valves hitting the pistons or is it compression.  

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